First trip in 09

I am about to collapse. The day started yesterday, I tried to sleep before the trip to Lorne but I couldn't. I think this is the first time in years that we get there before 9 am and it was worth it, perfect location for the car, the beach tent and a little surf in the morning.
I am still having a lot of trouble paddling bigger waves, I need more speed and more stamina and ten kilos less, then maybe in 3 more years I will be able to surf a decent wave.